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Kegerator And Build Your Own Step 2

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Here is the list of parts for the kegerator conversation kit you will need to build your
own cheap beer kegerator at home.

The next step in building a kegerator is buying the parts to the kit you will need for assembly. If you are using a refrigerator you will want to get a kegerator kit that includes a shank and handle faucet rather than a tower faucet. Tower faucets are for converting freezers such as chest freezers into kegerators.

Here you will learn what parts you will need and discover some advice of experience to get you one step closer to building your own kegerator conversion kit.

Make a Cheap Kegerator - CO2 Tanks1. CO2 Tank. For at home use these tanks usually come in 2.5 pound or 5 pound sizes however get much bigger for commercial applications. The size refers to how much the cylinder weighs when empty and put on a scale. 5 lb tanks are preferred and usually last around 7 or 8 kegs depending on the P.S.I the brewer recommends and if you have an leaks or not. Obviously, you fill these with CO2 and that can be done at any welding supply shop for around $11 dollars. BE CAREFUL some welding supply shops will prefer the aluminum tanks and will 'swap it out' instead of refilling yours - this leaves you with a dirty, funky tank. Tell the welder shop to 'refill only' please. And if they won't accommodate you find a new shop.


Tip: Buy an aluminum tank. They don't rust and maintain a cleaner look and this is important when they are in your refrigerator next to the keg.

We have enjoyed our trusted kegerator for years and would like to pass on the fun times a party of friends with full glasses of draft beer can have. Few folks with kegerators ever regret owning “the perfect touch” to a party, social event, or evening for two.

And everyone likes saving money, right?.....with a kegerator you pour fresh beer for pennies a glass. And to add the icing on the cake you help protect the environment in a small way. Keeping one more persons cardboard and aluminum out of the land fills does help.

If you are looking for a complete kit with all the components you will need, try these guys out,
$130 for a kit and fast shipping

Kegerator Component List:
·-CO2 Gas Regulator
·-Brewery Approved Pressure Hose with Connectors
·-System D “American” Keg Coupler
·-Brewery Approved Beer Hose with Connectors
·-Beer Shank Assembly
·-Shank Door/Wall Spacer
·-Beer Faucet and knob
·-Step-by-step instructions

Click the link below and you'll find they ship fast and are cheap.


However, you do not need to buy a kegerator kit from them you can build your own with these instructions.

2. CO2 Regulator. The regulator is the gauge device that will display the amount of CO2 pressure on the beer (P.S.I) as recommended by the brewer. Really the only way to figure out the "pounds per square inch" setting is to ask the place that you buy your kegs from. The P.S.I is typically not marked on the keg when you buy it and this will leave you guessing when you get home and this is NOT a process that you want to guess on; click here to find out why.


Tip: You can save money here and buy only one regulator to display the amount of pressure on the beer. However, this will leave you without much certainly to how much CO2 is left in the CO2 cylinder itself. And take it from us, because it has happened to us, throwing a party on a Saturday night and running out of CO2 can be a real bummer. You'll have to pull the keg out of the refrigerator, put an old fashioned pump on it, wrap it in ice and drink, drink, drink because it will be flat and warm in the morning.

So, we recommend buying two regulators, one to display the pressure on the beer and one to display the amount of CO2 left in the tank so you know when you are getting low and need to refill.

3. CO2 Line. The CO2 line will be the supply line for the CO2 to the sankey coupler . This line will need two clamps, one for the sankey coupler end and one for the regulator end. Typically this is 5/16".


4.Beer Line. The Beer line is the supply line for the shank to the sankey coupler. Don't worry while both the CO2 line and Beer Line attach to the sankey coupler when assembling the unit little arrows in the sankey coupler casting will explain which end goes in and which ends goes out, so pay close attention and watch for the difference. Typically this is a bit smaller than the CO2 line at 3/16". Both kinds off hosing needs to be purchased at a commercial kitchen supplier because of the sensitivity of the hose coming in direct content with the consumable beer. Explain your project to the kitchen supplier and they will have exactly what you are looking for.

Advice: Sometime it will be tempting to buy as much hose as you can because the hose is cheap; usually 15 cents a foot. However, if you are only going from the inside of a refrigerator to the outside keep the hose short and trimmed. That way the beer has less area to sit before being dispensed. This will ensure each drop out of that keg is tasty. AND, the shorter hose will be easier to clean.

5.The Shank. The shank is the essential piece that is set between the faucet on the outside of the refrigerator door and the beer hose on the inside of the refrigerator. Essentially this is the piece that goes through the refrigerator door. Be careful to keep this clean too.

Advice: Shanks require a 3/4" in hole to be drilled through the door of the refrigerator. So when you are at the hardware store be sure to pick up a 3/4" hole saw bit. Buy a cheap one, it won't be that much work for it to get through the door of the refrigerator. BE CAREUL! Be aware thatsome refrigerators have cooling element that run through the door, read the owners manual of your refrigerator because a punctured cooling element means a worthless refrigerator. And NEVER drill thorough the sides of a refrigerator or the rear, you are bound to hit a cooing element there too. You’ll also need to pick up a 2 1/8' flange to cover up the edges of the hole that you drilled and give that finished look between the outer door and the faucet.

6. The Coupler. This is the toughest decision to make for some and the easiest to make for others. The coupler is the piece that attaches to the top of the keg and unfortunately the brewers haven't defined one agreed upon size. There are 5 different couplers (D , S, U, A and G). Most American popular beers are D style as well as Labatt, Molson, Samuel Adams and Pete's Wicked and typically you will find kegerator kits default with a D style coupler. If you have further questions on which your favorite beer is email us and we'll be glad to help you out.

Advice: Buy the D coupler regardless of your tastes. You'll need it at sometime when drinking most popular beers then switch it out when you bring home a keg of tasty foreign beer.

Kegerator Kit Faucet7. The Faucet. The faucet is pretty obvious and hooks to the shank and your handle. Typically the faucets are polished chrome with a ball on the inside that stops the beer when the valve is closed by the handle.

8.The Handle. Again an obvious part of the unit, however essential like all the others.

Advice:You can easily customize your kegerator with your own faucet. All you need to do is purchase a 3/8" nut at the hardware store and that will fit on top of the brass male end on top of the faucet where you screw on the handle. So now you can use old wooden carvings, wooden spindles, toys or anything relatively light that you can drill out at the bottom and glue the nut into. Then after the nut is dry and secured to the bottom of the new handle you can screw it onto the handle.

9. Drip Tray. As we move down the list, the pieces to the kegerator kit become simpler. Obviously, beers drip and you don't want it on the floor. Be careful here to measure out enough room for a pitcher to fit under the faucet without interruption.

Advice: Save your money and buy a drip tray without a drain. Usually you won't have that much trouble pouring out the little beer that does collect and running an unsightly hose in front of your kegerator isn't that good of an idea.

10. Washers. Buy one fiber washer to go between the regulator and the CO2 tank. This washer is available where you get your tank filled. Buy one neoprene washer to go between the keg coupler and the beer line. This will stop beer from leaking out of the top of the coupler all over your refrigerator.

11. Clamps. You'll need three clamps to hold the hoses on to the regulator, coupler, and the shank. Standard screw tight clamps will work here.

12. 3/4" Hole Saw. Like we mentioned before, you'll need to saw a hole through the door for the shank to fit.

Advice: Save your money and buy a cheap one. Unless you're going to be a plumber someday you probably won't use this much...... unless you make a kegerator for your friends.


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Here at we specialize in quality, inexpensive, kegerator kits to complete your kegerator. Click here to see some of our specials.

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